Fyi there ar multiple standards for Poe with different voltages and some Poe switches only does one or maybe two standards (most often at 48-57 V) but if you have older/cheaper Poe devices they might use passive Poe at 24-38V and not all switches supports that mode simultaneously with the more modern Poe standards. Some switches will “support” both modes but only one mode at the time for all ports or maybe its just pasively passing on the input voltage as output voltage. Luckily most Poe switches support auto detection (unless its a crappy no name brand) and having that feature will protect your non Poe devices from damage. Poe is detected by some specific resistance steps on the wires (don’t quote me) but this means if you have very long wires auto detection might not work but that will always default to off. You can usually on a proper brand switch force a port to be on but then be sure to physically mark that port with a sticker or something saying it’s “HOT” because then there’s no protection for non Poe devices any longer.

I won’t recommend any switch for you at the moment untill I know more about your skill level and use case.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7lI2fyyleY&pp=ygUVZmx5dGVjaCBMaW51eCB3aW5kb3dz

Yes that’s exactly the one I was thinking of. Thank you.

I’ve heard it explained this way. The pain, tauma, and or grieving never really gets any smaller but you as a person can grow bigger and stronger so you must learn to live with it and learn how to deal with it.

It’ll always be part of you but learning how to talk about it and take care of yourself is the way forward.

That is a beautiful grinder. Thanks for the tip. Price wise the vs6 its similar but since its from NZ (I think but not sure) I’ll probably have to pay import tax on top. I like the smaller design and interchangeable grind geometry on the vs6. The vs3 is probably not for me since I really like light roast coffee and of the manufacturer says it’s challenging it’s probably very true 😅. The price on the vs3 is very nice tho.

Yeah. It’s stupid expensive, but you probably know the feeling. I mostly made the post to make sure that I didn’t miss something obvious that was better or if the grinder is not actually performing as advertised. I’m not so familiar with all the various brands.

I don’t mind the style so much. I think it’s pretty classic. I do care about esthetic and I like a white grinder which Eurika has as well, but the look is secondary to the workflow of the machine and build quality.

Any other brand you’d suggest instead?

How do you find the build quality? I looked at one about 4-5 years ago and it felt very cheap and plasticy on a first hand feel. How is it holding up?

Yes it is expensive but I just want a really good grinder where I dont have to compromise and will last a long time. I want to gift myself something nice where I do t have to deal with small annoyances like poor workflow/design, annoying buttons or unnecessary electronic that can break, cheap materials that won’t last more than ~5 years, uneven grind or a messy grinder that spills coffe on the table constantly (I had one of those and I hated it)

I’m not really interested in a manual grinder.

Any way i can report a website for violating this rule because I see it constantly everywhere and it seems to have no consequences.

Awesome. I’ll give it a go with lutris

Happy to hear a succes story and Sims 3 is the least interesting of the bunch. Sims 2 and 4 are most important for her.

I I wrote to someone else here I don’t really understand Lutris when I tried it about a year ago. I found it a bit confusing on how to use it and gave up rather quickly because steam ended up worked for my needs back then. But now I want remote play and Sims to work and I feel like I’m starting from scratch even though I very good with Linux. Gaming on Linux is a whole different ordeal with drivers and compatibility layers and I don’t want my girlfriend (or myself for that matter) to be bothered by this when we just want to game.

I briefly tried to install lutris on my laptop about a year ago, but i found it really confusing to use. If I remember correctly it required a disk or iso to install and i have everything through either steam or EA or som older games just installs natively so I didn’t really understand why or how I should use it.

Does pop then use SNAP because then I don’t really want to touch it. Imo. SNAP is so slow and bloated I don’t want it on my system if I can avoid it.

When cast iron is exposed to extreme heat, it can warp, crack, or permanently discolor.

This makes no sense to me and I would like to see some scientific research. We are not even close to the annealing temperature of cast iron (1300F-1400F). In no way can i imagine that a 1000F alone will make the pan warp. It really shouldn’t be possible from a material science perspective.

What makes cast iron crack and warp could be rapid temperature change if you put it immediately under cold water after high temperature since the temperature gradient in the material will form stresses that could cause cracks. But if a 1000F warps the pan I’d say that it is poor quality cast iron or something else is going on.

Why would they design the oven with a self cleaning cycle if you cannot use it? It’s advertising a feature that you cannot use. Sounds like a strange advice to me.

Glad to see that you succeed in making it good again. Now it looks properly clean as i was writing about on your last post. All that black gunk is gone and it has a nice brown smooth surface.

Actually i found that cleaning it with water, a little soap and a soft brush in-between layers may help a bit in making sure that any seasoning that didn’t adhere strongly gets washed off and making the surface ready for the next layer. But honestly the pan looks so good to me at this point so I’d probably just start using it like normal and as such it’ll get cleaned with soap in-between the layers (if you choose to do that of course but I highly recommend) when you clean it after cooking.

I wouldn’t say it’s completely without seasoning. It still has a light brow color which is already the first layer of seasoning. You don’t really need hundreds of layers for good performance. My carbon steel pan i just bought I started using after just 2-3 layers and it is working really well already. They key is to stop worrying so much and just use it, and don’t forget to clean it really well so the layers don’t get too think. It is when the layers get too think or if too much food gets charred stuck it can flake off like that. So just clean/scrub it well, and give it a suuuuper thin layer of oil afterwards. Then when you preheat the pan next time you use it that thin layer of oil will be you next layer of seasoning.

What I am about to say is controversial I know but there is a lot of misinformation out there about seasoning, cleaning and more. I hope you’ll hear me out because I recently changed my rutine completely and are getting way better pans out of it.

Now to it!

What i see on the picture is NOT seasoning breaking off! It is charred on food. Proper seasoning is microscopic thin and smooth and quite resistant to a lot of things. But fear not! It should be easy to rectify.

I would clean the gunk I see off with a steel sponge but with light pressure and I would use soap. Yes normal dish soap! If it comes off with dish soap and light brushing with a scrub (not steel) it is NOT proper seasoning and it deserves to come off. I only suggest steel now because you seem to have quite a lot of charred build up that I would takke off. On a daily basis i only use steel if i ever see a tiny spot of charred on food that is stuck. Any food left on the pan will inhibit a proper seasoning to build up so really do clean it. Modern dish soap does NOT destroy seasoning, that is only old style soap.

But here is the important bit. Now the pan has absolutely no protection if there are tiny gaps in your seasoning and it will rust really easily ( especially because the sesoning is maybe not super good and if you used a steel sponge here the first time you might actually damage the seasoning a bit but that is not really a problem because we’ll repair it immediately).

Always dry the pan with a teatowel. Make sure it is completely dry. (Note if the teatowel get dirty when drying it is not clean and it’s back to washing with soap and brush)

Now use a drop of oil (basically anything will do but not olive oil I think) and use a paper towel to spread a super thin layer of oil. Take a clean paper towel (or flip it over) and wipe any excess oil off. You want barely any oil left. Only a subtle shine.

You can now do one of two things

One: If you trust your pan to have good undamaged seasoning you can just put it away.

Two: put it on the stove and heat it up for 10-15 min on medium-hig heat. The oil starts smoking and this is where the seasoning is being created. The super thin layer of oil burns and creates a microscopic smooth surface of polymerized oils that binds to the steel. You can ONLY do this on a proper clean pan with no charred on food.

Since I started cleaning with dish soap to get proper clean pans and a fresh layer of oil, I have pans that are so much more consistent and non stick than ever before because the seasoning can be created properly on a smooth and clean surface every single time.