I’m not aware of any that are kept reliability in stock. You can get new sticks, gears and bowls (plastic ones that will have the same problem over time, but much cheaper). I would get new sticks to go with these bowls. https://store.kitsch-bent.com/products/n64-joystick-thumbstick
Ninten-drawer is a modern sliding replacement tray for the NES. It is more reliable than the cheap replacement 72 pin connector and doesn’t have a death grip on the cartridge. https://youtu.be/4lpCNMxGW3s
N64 controller stick modules work by spinning rotary encoders as the stick moves. The stick is and the bowl (typo in title haha) that keeps it in place are made of plastic. Overtime, both the stick and the bowl wear down and get loose. Using a steal bowl with a new stick keeps the original feel with much less grinding.
I get this is supposed to be a joke but why is it funny?
I like to take one step further and use a white pencil eraser followed by IPA. Helps get more of the dirt and oxidation off.
It’s doubtful any other cores will be present on the 3d, they have posted that it will not support openFPGA.
Or someone looking to buy their first. The user experience (menu wise) on the 4k line is so much nicer than the 5x in my opinion.
There’s a foot of space behind all the consoles and the door is always open when in use, no issues with heat
That is a Ultra Slim PS2 mod. Its basically as PS2 Slim with the disc drive removed (this one had a faulty drive). I boot all my games off the network so I prefer the slim and the Mister handles any PS1 titles so no worries about backwards compatibility. I also added a esp32 with a transistor so that when the console gets powered via a smart switch, it automatically turns on.
Heat wise is fine, there is about a foot of space behind all the consoles and the door stays open when in use. No issues with the PS5.
Very cool! If open that system up and try to identify the revision, if its not a 1.6 cut out the clock cap and clean the area with ipa. If you want to try going the softmod route, take a look at this tool https://github.com/Rocky5/Xbox-Softmodding-Tool (eg guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lW6QsGXTrFQ)
I also use node red for a lot. I have a LG c7 TV which has integrations in home assistant for switching inputs and kinda supports wake-on-lan, but I built up an IR transmitter with an esp32 to trigger the power more reliability. I built more ir transmitters for my HDMI switches and the retrotink to change profiles. I have zwave smart switches on all the consoles except for the switch and PS5 since those come on with the controllers. The PS2 and Xbox have additional mods so after they get power they get a simulated power button press. I have the Google assistant integration configured so I can turn on individual devices via voice commands.
Of course!
RetroRgb- great retro content in general, his weekly round ups and questions are incredibly useful. He also has a discord for patreon supporters which has a pretty chill group.
Voultar His videos are the best soldering tutorials on YouTube for consoles. Also his snes and N64 RGB mods are super simple to install for beginners. His video on the N64Digital really helped me install my own.
Macho Nacho He does pretty good coverage of newer mods and explains the features in pretty simple terms.
My Life In Gaming These guys have to be most in depth and unbiased reviewers of retro hardware.
Console Mods Wiki a pretty good site that covers a lot of information on retro consoles, still a work in progress
Console Repair Community this one is not too active (I’m most of the posts) but hopefully we can get more questions there.
And finally any of the individual communities on Lemmy for individual consoles. They aren’t the most active but if you post questions hopefully there are people to help answer (I subscribe to many of them and try to help when I can). The important thing is to ask detailed questions and provide pictures when it would help.
That is true, I just prefer the hardmod methods for their reliability. Only the 1.6v needs either a replacement or another mod to keep it out. Some of the 1.0 and 1.1 have a habit of CPU caps going as well.
Thanks! Many hours and esphome devices have made this my ultimate setup. The ones on the stands are just on display but they do work (both of those are picoboot, the Zelda doesn’t actually have a disc drive since it was rusted beyond saving). You are probably right it would risk damaging the disc. It would also be very unstable with wired controllers so you would have to use either wavebirds or BlueRetro for wireless.
You can save a little money getting the adapter on alliexpress and the kit is $30 which puts the cost at a much more reasonable $47 per controller. The adapter also works with the NSO controller if they ever stay in stock.
I use the 8bitdo kit paired with a BlueRetro adapter. I’d skip the hall effect joystick unless yours is in bad shape, it’s better than generic Amazon replacements but not as good as OEM.
The shell is painted (used to be a very faded purple) and the jewel is from Rocker Gaming on Etsy.
Well wanting an OG Xbox is a good motivation to learn! I got into this hobby because I wanted an HDMI mod for the N64 but didn’t want to pay over $600 for a premodded one.
Yes I do all the modding and repairs myself. The OG Xbox needs a lot of TLC, multiple caps need to be replaced depending on the model (clock cap needs to be removed on all of them). You don’t really need Project Stellar, though I do like it’s modern interface on the console. A Aladin chip flashed with Cerbios (which does require soldering) along with a Startech IDE Sata adapter and 80pin ide cable.
I go through different switchers to various inputs of the retrotink4k. I avoid composite to keep it simple and get a better picture.