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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: July 14th, 2023

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  • Signal notifies users who have your phone number in their contact list; it doesn’t matter if you have them in theirs. It’s an unfortunate side effect of their using phone numbers as identifiers instead of usernames or friend codes or something.

    Still a problem, and you basically need a new number as a workaround if you’re trying to conceal that you’re using it. On the upside, they don’t get access to your profile without your permission, so if an ex sees that you signed up they don’t know if it’s you or if you changed your number


  • In store, it’s hard to tell the difference. They run in a ”Store” / “Retail” mode that amps up the brightness and color saturation to a level that’s often unsustainable (it will damage the TV if you use it in this mode) and that doesn’t translate well to actual content because it’s too vivid.

    If you’re interested in understanding more about modern TV technology / which TVs are best, I recommend checking out Rtings and HDTVTest (there’s a site, a channel on Youtube, a subreddit, etc). The former because the reviews are great; the latter because Vincent explains these things well. He talks about specific technologies like types of OLED panels, different LED technologies, different settings on TVs and what they mean, calibration, etc…

    To answer your question, though: the more expensive technologies are what cost the most, and bigger versions (starting at 55”) also tend to cost more. Right now the best TVs you can buy are OLEDs - specifically, QD-OLEDs like the Sony A95L. A 55” is like $2500. By comparison, a traditional OLED (or “WOLED”) like the LG C3 is half the price - a 55” is $1300 - and nearly as good. (And a previous gen model, like the C2, will be even cheaper, if you can find one.)





  • I use single-purpose email addresses and so feel free to sign up for the mailing lists of things I’m specifically interested in. If I get an email from anyone else then that email address gets scrapped and I know I can’t trust that entity anymore.

    If the emails I’m getting aren’t occasionally interesting to me, I unsub. But if an artist is making cool things and sharing them then those emails are worth reading. If a place I want to buy some stuff from is having a sale, that’s worth knowing (and if I might buy from there, I filter their emails so they aren’t in my inbox but are available and I can grab a coupon code from a recent email when I spontaneously decide to buy something). If new features are coming to a service I already use, then that kinda is “news” for me.


  • Thanks, that’s good to know.

    I’m running ZFS on my server and tried an L2 cache at first (a 2 TB NVME on a system with a 64 GB ARC and three mirrored 18 TB HDD vdevs) but it didn’t seem like it was giving me much benefit. I looked into tweaking the settings a bit (prioritizing frequently used over MRU, increasing write rates, etc) but after seeing that most of the advice online was that it wasn’t great for my use case, I gave up and repurposed the drive. However, my use case has changed a bit (I’m using my server for more things) and I may try using the spare 256 GB drive that the 2 TB one displaced as an L2ARC drive now.





  • That’s not happening anymore due to real world constraints, though. Dennard scaling combined with Moore’s Law allowed us to get more performance per watt until around 2006-2010, when Dennard scaling stopped applying - transistors had gotten small enough that thermal issues and other current leakage related challenges meant that chip manufacturers were no longer able to increase clock frequencies each generation.

    Even before 2006 there was still a cost to new development, though, us consumers just got more of an improvement per dollar a year later than we do now.


  • ex-lease cars are just as good as new

    They literally aren’t. If the car is going to last 200k miles then getting a car with 36k miles on it already means you’re that much closer to it failing.

    It’s also going to be that much closer to needing more expensive maintenance to be done.

    A three year old car will often have a lesser feature set than the current year’s models. Stepping up to the higher trim that had those features 3 years ago can negate the cost savings of buying used in the first place.

    Ex-lease cars are frequently well-maintained and driven responsibly, but that doesn’t mean they’re “as good as new.”

    come with a new car warranty

    Do you mean “comes with what’s left of the original warranty?” Because that’s generally true but doesn’t mean you benefit from it the same amount. If it has a 5 year, 60k mile warranty (Mitsubishi) and you only get the warranty for 2 years and 24k miles, that’s not the same.

    With CPO cars you also get the CPO warranty but that doesn’t usually make the total warranty you get as good or better than what you would have gotten new.

    Kia and Lexus both have very competitive CPO warranty programs. Kia has a 1 year / 12k miles bumper-to-bumper warranty. Lexus extends their 4 year/50k miles new car warranty by 2 years/unlimited miles after your purchase date or after the original warranty expired, whichever happens first. If you buy a CPO Lexus at the 2 year mark then you’ll get a full warranty out of it, but that’s not true for most other manufacturers.

    And I don’t know of a single manufacturer that completely refreshes their warranty term for CPO cars.

    and don’t come with the absurd depreciation.

    The cars that make the most sense to buy used have the least depreciation, though. For example, looking at CPO Toyota RAV4s, for the ones that aren’t former rentals/didn’t have accidents/multiple owners, the 3+ year old models are very comparable in price, like 26k for a RAV4 with nearly 50k miles vs 30k new, or 27-28k for one with under 30k miles.

    If the lifespan of the car for you is 10 years then a 3 year old car is 30% less valuable - so a 13% discount is hardly a bargain. You’d need to keep it for 20 years - until it was 23 years old - for your 13% savings to be more valuable than the extra lifespan of the car.

    You also frequently get a worse interest rate on CPO cars than on new.

    There are many times when it makes sense to buy a CPO vehicle but also many where it makes more sense to buy new. Do the math in your specific case rather than acting like there’s a one size fits all solution.